Mon 27 Oct, 2008
NEEDLES: When your needle starts to sound like it’s plucking the fabric that’s time to replace it. It’s also possible that you’re using the wrong needle. Needles rated “standard” are actually designed to be used on polyester and they are meant to be slightly dull because polyester snags easily. Use a ballpoint needle to work with stretch knits such as jersey or viscose. You want a sharp needle for woven fabrics such as wool, cotton, linen, hemp, rayon, and a thinner sharp needle for silk. Sharp needles rated for denim are quite thick, and needles for leather have square edges. A microtex needle is suitable for synthetics such as faux suede, and PVC.
PERSONALIZED SEWING LABELS: Personalized sewing labels are a fabulous way to make your work look more professional, whether you are sewing for yourself or for clients.
SERGER: A serger is a machine that finishes the raw edges of cut fabric. Some sergers do other fun stuff, but essentially you will be able to make every project on my blog without one. You can use the zigzag stitch on your sewing machine to prevent edges from fraying, and you can also trim the seam allowances with pinking shears after you finish sewing- which is a very affordable option. In fact, you don’t even need a sewing machine to make beautiful clothes. You’d be amazed what you can accomplish with a handsewing needle and quality fabrics, however, machines are nice to use because they speed up the process. Some handiwork will never be improved upon by machinery; though I love using my Pfaff serger that I bought for myself as a present after finally paying off my student loans.
SEWING FABRIC: Try to find a local shop that isn’t a big chain. Ideally the shop owner is obsessed with fabrics. It’s an excellent sign if you are able to easily find out the exact fibre content such as 40% linen, 60% silk- rather then getting a blank stare. Knowing what the fabric is made of will help you take care of it properly.
SEWING MACHINES: I currently use a Pfaff sewing machine which I love, but I started out using a Singer sewing machine and it worked well too. The older Singers tend to be better than the new ones believe it or not, but you will find most brands effective as long as you give it the proper care. I used to know a girl in Toronto who had her own business making leather goods and she used a cheap Kenmore- with a proper leather needle. She’s probably got something more fancy now, but it’s fine to start out on whatever you’ve got.
I have used an industrial sewing machine but I don’t find it necessary. Guys (the ones who don’t sew) tend to be overly impressed by industrial machines for some reason, but you will be able to make almost anything on a home sewing machine that is in good condition. Sometimes you can get a better price on a used industrial sewing machine, so it pays to shop around. Just make sure if you do get an industrial machine that it will be suitable for doing fine work as well as quick procedures. I advise getting your sewing machine tuned up at a local shop once a year or two, no matter what the make or model.
SHEARS OR SCISSORS: Lots of brands are good. I use Kai, but there are many other brands that will do the job well. The easiest scissors to work with are flat on the bottom so your hand ends up above the fabric. Do not use your fabric scissors to cut anything other than fabric as it will cause the blades to dull and they will not work anymore. Do not cut paper with them. Buy another pair for paper and leave them in a handy spot for the people you live with, such as a drawer in the kitchen. You will need paper scissors anyway so that you can cut your pattern out.
If your family or roomates will use your sewing shears even if they know better or because the handles look the same as the paper scissors then you should hide them.
SEWING NOTIONS: I buy most of my buttons, pins, zippers, etc, locally. Look for buttons made of genuine shell (for shirts), horn (for bespoke suits and coats), and Tagua nut (rainforest ivory) if you want the highest quality.
STITCH RIPPER: An implement that is under-used in horror movies…but for real, a stitch ripper is easy to use and you will definitely need one. Don’t bother getting surgical steel- that’s just scary. I do find a narrower point gets into small stitches better.
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